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Surfing
Last week I paddled across the Brunswick river and went surfing. The only people I saw were two young boys fishing off the rocks and two young dolphins fishing in the river. It was raining and the surf was rough and full of white wash. But on my first wave when I stood up and looked into the face of the wave in that split second I remembered that I was surfing for enjoyment. A little smile emerged and I scooted down the face with joy.
The good thing about surfing is its diversity. The enjoyment of surfing can be felt in waves that range from small ripples to the elite levels of giant dredging barrels that are three stories high. Surfers come from all walks of life and surf for many different reasons. They all experience the health giving benefits of spending time in the ocean. Sea water contains the full spectrum of minerals and the time spent surfing can be very cleansing and nutritive. Surfing is also a great way to strengthen your body and increase vitality.
The act of surfing starts with knowledge of the ocean. It is important to have the confidence that you will be able to swim to shore from wherever you end up floating just in case you lose your surfboard.
Surfing and Yoga.
The anticipation before a surf can be very exciting and often you can see surfers jogging down to the shoreline and plunging straight in. A good stretch before venturing out helps you to relax, enjoy your surroundings, focus and warm up the muscles to avoid injury.
This video from Korduroy.tv shows how free surfer Dave 'Rasta' Rastovich warms up before a morning surf...
Rastovich's Yoga Routine - Health Nuts from www.KORDUROY.tv on Vimeo.
A day in the life of a surfer
We begin the day in the life of a surfer the night before an early morning surf. Before internet surf reports were invented, surfers would reach their heads out the window the night before a surf and check wind conditions. If the air is still, then there is a greater chance the surf will be glassy and smooth in the morning. Excitement starts to grow and tide charts are checked. Surfing videos go in the player and someone inevitably grabs a guitar.
Waking at the crack of dawn for an early morning surf check can be difficult but the rewards far outweigh the the allure of the warm bed. Another wind check happens and if the leaves aren't moving in the trees then the urgency to get to the beach increases. The mood of the ocean varies on a daily basis and surfing can be very frustrating waiting for the elements to align. But the days they do can leave you with a contented inner smile.